Attention Deficit Disorder Prosthetic Memory Program

Machapuchare

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A mountain situated in the Annapurna massif in northcentral Nepal. Machapuchare is at the end of a long spur ridge, coming south out of the main backbone of the Annapurna massif, which forms the eastern boundary of the Annapurna Sanctuary. Its double summit resembles the tail of a fish, hence the name meaning “fish’s tail” in Nepalese. It is a sacred peak for the Gurungs and the people of Chomrong; the mountain is said to be a home to the god Shiva.

Its highest peak has never been officially climbed due to the impossibility of gaining a permit from the government of Nepal. The only confirmed attempt was in 1957 by a British team led by Lieutenant Colonel Jimmy Roberts. Climbers Wilfrid Noyce and ADM Cox climbed to within 150m (492ft) of the summit via the north ridge, to an approximate altitude of 22,793ft (6,947m). Adhering to the word of honour given to the then King Mahendra, Noyce and his team descended without stepping onto the summit—thus publishing the only climbing record of the mountain a year later. No permits to climb the mountain have been issued since then. However, there have been reports of a New Zealand climber, Bill Denz, making a successful yet illegal attempt at the summit in the early 1980s.

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